Monday, October 19, 2015
Saturday, August 8, 2015
On the hardware side: If you want to keep the background from being black then you pretty much need the sun behind you, and you need to shoot no higher than 2x. As the magnification goes up the amount of available surface area in the background drops, so you'll quickly reach a point where you'll have to set the shutter too slow, ISO too high, and or the Fstop too low. I've found a pretty good balance with my camera set to 1/60, ISO 200, and F11. Then all I have to do is adjust the FEC, usually setting it at about -1. The key is to dial in your camera settings, cast a shadow over and focus on a flower you've baited, and take a shot with the flash off. If you've got some color and detail in the background, and as long as it's not over exposed and the flower is nearly black, then you should be good to go. As long as the flower is horribly under exposed with the flash turned off, then the flash will be the only significant light source on the subject when its turned on. So it's the flash, and not the shutter, that's going to freeze the motion in the scene (just like shooting macro with the flash as the only light source). Set your flash to second curtain sync just in case you do get some motion from the natural light (it will freeze the area in motion right before the shutter closes, giving you detail in that area even though there was movement).
Get happy with the delete key on the keyboard -this is not studio shooting...
Thursday, August 6, 2015
Sunday, August 2, 2015
Bees have a tendency to pull away from me, and I used that behavior to my advantage for this next shot. A head on shot looking down into the flower got stuck in my head after one session of shooting feeding bees. But I knew that the limited depth of field, even at F16, was going to be problematic. But positioning myself over the top of this bumblebee caused it to pull away from the flower, allowing me to place the thin flat area of acceptable focus over the proboscis all the way to its eyes and head.
On mixing natural light and flash: Changing the sensitivity of your sensor (the ISO) or the amount of light coming into the lens (the Fstop) will effect both the natural light and the flash in a scene. But as long as you stay below the maximum flash sync speed for your camera the shutter will only impact the natural light. So the “trick” that I’m using with images like this next one is to lower the shutter speed so I can use natural light to expose the background, and since I’m deliberately shading the subject the flash can still freeze what little motion is left to give me sharp details in the subject. I don’t care about motion causing the background to blur since it will be out of focus anyway.
This is the last post in this series. I have some more behavioral info, and well as a lot to say about composition. But I’m going to save it for my next book (hopefully get it out this fall). Until next time happy shooting :)
Monday, May 25, 2015
When I first got into macro photography I ran into a lot of bad advice, and one misconception that I still see people buying into even today is that you need long glass to shoot skittish or active subjects. Now I’m not saying that’s completely false, there are some critters that you may need a lens in the 150mm plus range to photograph. But that really only holds true if you’re using natural light, and the subject is very skittish. But if you’re using a flash as your primary light source then you need to get your diffusers close to the subject to get really well diffused light, and if your diffusers are close then the working distance of the lens is kinda mute. Add to that the need for a completely calm day with little or no wind when working with long glass and you’ll find yourself limited to what you can do, and when you can do it, when using a big lens.
So what does all of that have to do with shooting bees? Well, what if I told you that one of my “secrets” to taking images of them above life size is to use a short focal length lens and go looking for them on windy days. In fact the windier the day the easier it is to get close to them, because they can’t tell the difference in the vibration caused by the breeze and me grabbing onto the stem of the flower that they are on. Once I have that stem between my left index finger and thumb I rest the lens on that same hand. Now the subject and the camera are on the same “platform” and I have almost full control over the motion in the scene, and I can turn the flower and twist the camera to make the most of what little depth of field there is in a single frame macro image. If I’m really lucky then the skies are partly cloudy and the critters are used to the occasional drop in light, so they’re not concerned when I cast a shadow over them. So although it sounds really counterintuitive it’s sometimes best to use a short focal length lens and go shooting on a windy day :)
I also like to go shooting active subjects early in the morning for two reasons. The first is that they are still trying to get moving and they may just be active and not hyperactive. The other is that they are just like us in that they really need breakfast. So the hungrier they are the more likely they’ll put up with me getting close to them. Later in the day, when there’re not so concerned with eating, it’s going to be more difficult.
Until next time happy shooting :)